Now that you’ve reserved your Tesla, you’re probably looking for effective ways to protect it. PPF is the best way to keep your paint shiny and scratch-free and help maintain its resale value. Unlike a paint job, PPF is removable and does not damage the original paint. It ensures that it stays beautiful for up to 10 years without yellowing or cracking like before.

What is PPF?

PPF is essentially a clear polyurethane film that is applied over the body of your Tesla. This barrier protects against any road collisions or environmental damage. This includes acidic bird droppings and insects that typically etch into your clear coat. The idea behind installing PPF is to keep your paint looking new for years to come, without any stone chips, scratches or stains.

Our PPF kits are very suitable for DIY; you can install them easily and cheaper at home. So if you are looking for a budget-friendly solution, PPF kits are the way to go. You will find them in the collection at the end of this article.

At Tesbros we offer PPF kits from leading manufacturers such as Avery Dennison and STEK. Now you can confidently drive around in your Tesla and tackle any terrain without having to spend hundreds of dollars on scratch repairs or paint chips, no matter where you sit behind the wheel.

Why should you invest in PPF for your Tesla?

Since you’re a Tesla fan or a previous Tesla owner, you’ve seen that their paint jobs aren’t great. The paint is thinner and flakes off easily. After 10,000 km my rockers are broken and the bumper needs a makeover.

Another reason you might want to get PPF for your Tesla is its inherent design. Teslas have a flatter and wider front end, making it much more likely for dirt and insects to hit the front end. Also the wheels. The rims protrude quite a bit, causing particles to land on your rockers at high speed.

Because most PPFs have a hydrophobic coating, it is designed to repel moisture, dirt, feces and insects, making it much easier to clean and keep clean.

When should you install PPF?

We recommend that you purchase PPF as soon as you purchase the car. If you decide to wait before getting PPF, be sure to paint and touch up properly before installing PPF. This is not necessarily a problem, but leaves room for possible imperfections in the installation job and increases the price.

Since we launched the DIY PPF kits for the Model 3 and Model Y, we’ve had a lot of great feedback, but we see the same issues over and over again. These 5 common mistakes people make when installing PPF are things that both professional installers and DIYers have struggled with, including myself when I first started.

1. Slip solution is your friend

You have to be generous with your panty solution. You really want to extinguish every square inch of the panel. The PPF should ‘slide’ easily. If you don’t have enough slip, you will hear the PPF sticking in certain areas when you try to move it.

You also want to spray on top of the PPF, otherwise you may damage the film with your squeegee as it will not glide properly. If you wipe too hard, lines may appear on the film. Spray often and fill your slip bottles before each panel so you don’t run out during installation.

2. Watch for dirt

One of the most common ways we actually introduce dirt is through the squeegee. It falls on the floor, you put it down, you might put it in your pocket – anything can pick up dirt. To combat that, get a small, clean bucket of water and place your PPF squeegee in it when you’re not using it. This way it is always clean. If you drop it on the ground, throw it in the water – ready to use.

If there is any dirt or grime under the film, let’s see how I can get rid of it. If it’s been a day since installation, then it’s probably too late, but if it’s within an hour of installation, it’s best to try to get it out.

Ji does a good demo the video to show how he gets out.

Spray plenty of slip solution to get started – under the foil and on top as you pull the foil up. Make sure your hands are clean. Try not to hold the corners or edges for too long so you don’t stretch it. As you lift it, continue spraying the slip solution until you reach the debris. Make sure you work with gravity and come from below if possible. This way the dirt slides down naturally.

It’s tempting to stick your finger up there and grab it, but don’t! Instead, once you get to that point, squirt it to get it moving. Hopefully it comes down with the liquid. If not, use the edge or tip of your clean squeegee to shake it up. It should come loose from the adhesive and then squirt back in and watch it go down and out of the film.

3. You don’t need heat

Many people have the idea that you have to use a heat gun and they treat PPF like vinyl. Vinyl wraps are a completely different installation.

The only times you want to heat is if you need to do a lot of stretching or if you need to dry the edges so you can wrap around them.

On the other hand, if you need heat for stretching, I like to use hot water in my slip and tack solutions. Or a steamer is nice because it is moisture. You have to be very careful with a heat gun because it is just dry heat that can easily burn or deform the film.

4. Bubbles Bubbles Bubbles

Why do we get bubbles at all? Many people forget to overlap the movements of the squeegee, or they rub too gently. Another way is to return to the tacking point with the squeegee. That can catch bubbles there, because there is no starting point.

There are two types of bubbles: moisture bubbles and air bubbles. Moisture bubbles form when there is slip solution in the bubble. These will disappear in a few weeks if they are smaller than a nickel.

Air bubbles usually form when you don’t have enough slip solution and air gets trapped. These will not disappear because nothing can evaporate. You should remove that with plenty of slip solution and try again if it hasn’t been more than a few hours. Some people also use a thin syringe and suck the air out, but you have to be very careful with that method. Do-it-yourselfers are more likely to damage the paint this way.

Finally, sometimes you get air bubbles if there is dirt underneath, or a paint chip that has risen.

5. How to handle fingers

The last problem we’re going to talk about is fingers, also called wrinkles. The reason why that happens is because too much material builds up in that area. It usually happens along edges. Normally you want to stretch the material over the panels to prevent fingers, but sometimes this is not possible because it has already hardened.

Ji does a demo of how to get rid of wrinkles in the video above.

You will spray that area with slip solution and then with tack solution. Work the eraser downwards until some fingers disappear. Sometimes you have to hold it down a little longer. Another way to do this is to wrap your squeegee in microfiber and hold it on the edge to absorb the moisture.

If you have large fingers, make sure to split them down the middle to make them smaller and easier to work with. Divide and conquer. Don’t go too fast when working on this either, or you may permanently damage the film with wrinkles.

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That sums up the big problems we see. Just a reminder to make sure you do the installation indoors in a clean, room temperature environment. Half the battle is preparing your car and installing it in a clean environment. It is also good to have bright light, such as a headlamp. It can help you detect problems early.

Our DIY PPF kits are made a little differently. They’re designed with beginners in mind, and if you follow the step-by-step video guides, you’ll be fine.

STAY INFORMED

YouTubers to subscribe to:

Tesbros – We focus on helping you customize, protect and maintain your Tesla so you get the best ownership experience.

TeslaRaj – He focuses on Tesla’s basic functions and maintenance.

i1tesla – He documents how and what he does to customize his Tesla.

Andy Slye – He usually explains Tesla’s latest features/technology and offers good reviews.

Tesla joy – She talks about her experiences with ownership and what she learned from it.

Wham Baam Teslacam – Wham Baam shares teslacam content submitted mostly by Tesla owners and shows some crazy crashes and wild encounters on the road.

Frugal Tesla guy – He mainly discusses Tesla accessory reviews.

Mother Frunker – Software and technical updates are his specialty.

TesLatino – He focuses on his experiences as a Tesla owner.

Kim Java – She not only focuses on her Tesla experiences and reviews, but also branches out into some other EVs and solar energy.

Ryan Shaw – Tesla technology, new features and reviews.

Who to follow on Twitter:

Elon Musk

Tesla

Sawyer Merritt

Whole Mars Catalog

Join your local Tesla group on Facebook. Often there are Tesla groups for your state and your city. I suggest joining both of them, because there are often meetups or local tips/news about Tesla.

I also recommend that you sign up Test lettera free weekly newsletter in which you will find the latest news and software updates surrounding Tesla and Elon.

Acronyms:

EV – a complete one Eelectric Vehicle, not a hybrid

FSD – Completely self-driving. You hear the term FSD beta a lot, because FSD is new to the game and constantly being improved.

AP – Autopilot. Double tap the stem to activate. Your car stays in the lane and accelerates and decelerates as necessary.

EAP – Improved autopilot. This bad boy will do everything AP can do including changing lanes and taking exits.

ICE – This applies to petrol or diesel cars with a Iinternal ccombustion Eengine.

Frozen– ‘ICEd’ means that an ICE vehicle occupies an EV charging spot. “I received ICU treatment at the mall today.”

Rain – You will see that regenerative braking is much shortened to ‘rain’. Tesla’s rain braking essentially lets you drive with one pedal, as the car slows down as soon as you release the accelerator. This feature also saves energy and range. Watch the range video above for more information.

OTA – Over-The-Air, referring to Tesla’s software updates that come over the air via Wi-Fi or mobile data

SA – Tesla’s service advisors

TSLA – the Tesla stock symbol

TSLAQ – Tesla Q refers to those who criticize Tesla and may be shorting Tesla stock.

Learn more about Tesla abbreviations here.

Properly cleaning your vinyl wrap is important when it comes to how long your vinyl wrap will last. Wraps usually last 5-7 years, especially from big brands like 3m and Avery Dennison. However, they can only last 1-3 years if you don’t take care of them. Let’s talk proper washing technique, how to avoid water stains and permanent etching, and ultimately how to ensure your sling lasts as long as those 7 precious years.

In the video above we use a Model Y wrapped in Avery Satin Khaki Green for demonstration purposes. It’s been in the package for a few months and still looks great. I want to start by emphasizing that vinyl does not protect like PPF does. They are made differently and have different purposes. The purpose of vinyl is to change the color.

Does it provide any protection? Certainly. It is still a barrier between the elements, but does not protect against stone chips or deep scratches. It is about 1/3 the thickness of PPF. Vinyl has some self-healing properties, but is limited to very minor scratches and swirls; they heal during a certain period with heat from the sun. You can also pour warm water over the area to speed up the process.

How to wash vinyl packaging

Let’s start with proper washing technique. Use pH neutral products on your vinyl wrap, such as our car wash shampoo. The two-bucket method is the most recommended and popular way to wash your car. It’s best to wash your car every 2-3 weeks, depending on how often you drive and what type of road conditions you encounter. This method obviously includes 2 buckets, one for washing and one for rinsing. Using these two buckets instead of one will prevent dirt from getting on your car. To take it even further, having a grit guard in your rinse bucket can help keep the dirt at the bottom of the bucket. Dip your glove into the wax, gently slide it over the surface of your car, then dip it into the rinse bucket before repeating. I like to turn my glove halfway through the panel and rinse it after each panel. Wash from top to bottom in this order, going from least dirty to most dirty:

1. Roof and rear window
2. Side glass, pillar and mirror
3. Windscreen
4. Hood and mudguard
5. Rear side panel and trunk
6. Doors
7. Rear bumper
8. Front bumper
9. Rockers

Disclaimer: I recommend NOT washing or leaving your car in the rain for the first 7 days after installation. These things can contribute to edge failure.

If you do use a foam cannon and/or high-pressure cleaner, make sure you keep it at a distance of 30 to 40 centimeters while spraying. Do not spray inside neither do the edges. This can cause the edges to peel off prematurely.

Avoid water stains

Dry your car is crucial to avoid those pesky water stains. Most people don’t have deionized water, but if you do have access to it, it’s really nice to have. That just means that your water contains little to no minerals. Minerals in the water are the cause of the water stains. So if you have “clean” water, you technically don’t need to dry it. Either way, it’s good practice. These are the two ways I recommend drying your car:

• Large plush microfiber drying towel. Simply run the device gently over your car as demonstrated in the video, rather than scrubbing roughly.
• Leaf blower. I like to use EGO. This is an easy and satisfying way to blow the water out of your car. It’s especially easy if ceramic coated.

Waterless wash

If you wash regularly while on the road and in between, you may get insects, bird droppings or tree sap on your sling. It happens! It’s best to take those things off right away, rather than waiting for a regular wash every few weeks. I keep a waterless wash (aka quick detailer) in my car with a microfiber so I can easily grab those things when I’m on the road before they stain or etch. If they stay there too long and end up in the movie, unfortunately there’s no way to get that out. Waterless is also an easy way to clean door and trunk sills!

Ultimate protection = PPF or ceramic coating

Like I said before, vinyl wraps don’t protect like PPF yes. To the ultimate protection, you can apply PPF over the vinyl. PPF is meant to protect your paint, but it can do the same to your vinyl. It is scratch resistant, self-healing and has hydrophobic properties, so you can easily keep your vinyl wrap underneath in good condition. I recommend only covering the front (bumper, hood, mirrors, fenders, headlights) as those are the areas of greatest impact, but you can of course do the entire car.

You can also apply a ceramic coating over your PPF or vinyl. This would give it hydrophobic properties, making it easier to clean and less likely to attract stains. It would also really bring out the shine of your shawl. Keep in mind that ceramic coating always lasts; Nothing adheres to the ceramic coating, so it cannot be used under vinyl or PPF.

Both are ways to do everything you can to ensure your vinyl is in top shape.

Bonus tips

• You can remove it without damaging the paint.
• Many wrap stores have a warranty. I recommend you ask about this when you make inquiries. For us, we offer a 1 year warranty against any defects or defects due to installation, and we will replace damaged panels at cost if you have an accident.
• You can pack yourself! At TESBROS we have vinyl wraps for outdoor and indoor use that are pre-cut and come with everything you need for wrapping. Currently we are only offering touches like pillar removal or center console wraps, but in the near future we will be offering full body wraps for the Cybertruck and hopefully other models! Stay up to date with our social channels for more.

If you just got a new car and want to keep it protected, then PPF is definitely for you. Your foil, especially from top brands such as Avery, 3M, Xpel, STEK, etc., will last up to 10 years *with proper care.* Let’s talk about simple tips and methods to ensure your PPF stays in the best shape, and your car stays looking shiny and new for all those 10 years.

In the video above, Ji uses his 2023 Model S for demonstration. There is factory PPF on the rocker section. Unfortunately, no more of his car currently has PPF. It is used in much research and development of TESBROS products and rarely stays the same way for too long. But if you are looking for PPF I recommend covering only the front (bumper, hood, mirrors, fenders, headlights) and the rockers as these are the highest impact areas, but of course you can cover the entire car doing. We have Tesla DIY PPF options at tesbros.com.

What is PPF?

The purpose of PPF is to protect the car’s paint against stone chips, scratches and wear. It comes in gloss, matte and more recently, colour. It is a thin layer of polyurethane with super durable, self-healing properties. It is about 3x the thickness of colored vinyl for reference.

How to wash PPF

Let’s start with proper washing technique. Use pH neutral products on your PPF, such as our car wash shampoo. The two-bucket method is the most recommended and popular way to wash your car. It’s best to wash your car every 2-3 weeks, depending on how often you drive and what type of road conditions you encounter. This method obviously includes 2 buckets, one for washing and one for rinsing. Using these two buckets instead of one will prevent dirt from getting on your car. To take it even further, having a grit guard in your rinse bucket can help keep the dirt at the bottom of the bucket.

If your car has a template or pre-cut PPF, it will generally line up right on the edge and not roll over. If there are any areas where the PPF is on the edge, clean them first. Spray the PPF areas with water. If you use a pressure washer, do not spray directly into the edges. Then go over the areas with your wash mitt and shampoo. Finally, use a boar bristle brush, dip it into your laundry bucket and go over all the edges, agitating the dirt that is there. Boar brushes are soft, not bristly and will not scratch your surfaces. Ji does a good demonstration in the video above.

Once you’re done with that, rinse off the spots and start on your entire car. Dip your glove into the wax, gently slide it over the surface of your car, then dip it into the rinse bucket before repeating. Don’t go in circles! Wash in straight lines. This reduces the chance of swirls. I like to turn my glove halfway through the panel and rinse it after each panel. Wash from top to bottom in this order, going from least dirty to most dirty:

1. Roof and rear window
2. Side glass, pillar and mirror
3. Windscreen
4. Hood and mudguard
5. Rear side panel and trunk
6. Doors
7. Rear bumper
8. Front bumper
9. Rockers

Disclaimer: I recommend NOT washing or leaving your car in the rain for the first 7 days after installation. The moisture between the foil and the paint is still evaporating and the edges are still drying. The use of shampoo prevents the edges from properly curing. And if there are any small bubbles smaller than a nickel, they should disappear on their own within a few weeks, so don’t worry about that.

If you do use a foam cannon and/or high-pressure cleaner, make sure you keep it at a distance of 30 to 40 centimeters while spraying. Do not spray inside neither do the edges. This can cause the edges to peel off prematurely.

The two bucket method is the same way I would wash paint, vinylor ceramic coating. It is generally the safest way to wash cars.

Avoid water stains

Dry your car is crucial to avoid those pesky water stains. Most people don’t have deionized or “clean” water, but if you do have access to it, it’s really nice to have. That just means that your water contains little to no minerals. Minerals in the water are the cause of the water stains. So technically, if you have clean water, you don’t need to dry it. Either way, it’s good practice. These are the two ways I recommend drying your car:

• Large plush microfiber drying towel. Simply run the device gently over your car as demonstrated in the video, rather than scrubbing roughly.
• Leaf blower. I like to use EGO. This is an easy and satisfying way to blow the water out of your car. It’s especially easy if ceramic coated.

Waterless wash

If you wash regularly while on the road and in between, you can get insects, bird droppings or tree sap on your foil. It happens! It’s best to take those things off right away, rather than waiting for a regular wash every few weeks. I keep a waterless wash (aka quick detailer) in my car with a microfiber so I can easily grab those things when I’m on the road before they stain or etch. If they stay there too long and end up in the movie, unfortunately there’s no way to get that out. Waterless is also an easy way to clean door and trunk sills!

Ultimate protection = Ceramic coating

To have even more protection, you can apply a ceramic coating over the PPF. It is scratch resistant, self-healing and has hydrophobic properties making it easy to clean and the stains harder to set, keeping your PPF underneath in good condition. It would also really bring out the shine of your shawl. Many wrap stores will give you a deal if you decide to do both.

Many films are pre-coated with a ceramic layer, but these last about 6 months. If you cover it with a ceramic coating, it will last up to 3 years.

Keep in mind that ceramic coating always lasts; Nothing adheres to the ceramic coating, so it cannot be used under vinyl or PPF.

Bonus tips

• You can delete it without damage to the paint.
• Many wrap stores have a warranty. I recommend you ask about this when you make inquiries.
• You can pack yourself! At TESBROS we have PPF wraps for outdoor and indoor use that are pre-cut and come with everything you need for wrapping. From glove compartment protection to packing your entire Model Y, we’ve got you covered.
• Good news! Due to the progress of the film, it can no longer yellow or crack, and many top brands come with a guarantee for this.
• The nice thing about PPF is that surface scratches and swirls in the film will heal over time from the heat of the sun. You can also pour warm water over the area to speed up the process. This only works for light, superficial scratches.